You are my sweetest downfall

I had one project for each of the west bluff, east bluff, and old sandstone areas this summer.

Early on in the season I cleaned up on my old sandstone project, Baker Street: a long, slightly slabby, sequency beast consisting of teensy crimp followed by even teensier crimp. I've seen it toss off many a climber used to ascending tougher stuff than its 5.10d rating would suggest. It was actually my project from the previous summer, but I didn't climb much that year and could never remember where the nearly invisible intermediate holds were.

Last weekend D, U and I headed over to the site of my project there. Coup d'Etat, at 5.11a/b, is my most ambitious project to date, even if it is rather short. There's just no feet to the thing, and the nasty thin finger crack causes even a crack-lover like me pause. With some fancy footwork, two tries, and a whole lot of much-appreciated shouting from D and U, I finally clawed my way up that one. That success made up for getting spooked on Son of Great Chimney (on top-rope nonetheless) and demanding to be set down later in the day.

After that victory, I feel ready to challenge my east bluff project tomorrow: Flake Route, a classic Devil's Lake quartzite climb. She's dead vertical with tiny crimps, long reaches, and real balancy, too. I've been on her twice previously this summer and just haven't been able to power through the end. I'll let you know how that goes - wish me luck.

Today I am just trashed from too much activity and not enough sleep yesterday. Rode Little Red the ~ 6.5 mi into campus, with 20 mph gusts pushing against me, to meet el señor B to try out a yoga/pilates class at the SERF. It was a decent class, I think we're going to both try to incorporate it into our weekly workout. Did some easy biking mid-day just to get around campus and then biked home, against the wind again.* Then went on to the climbing gym where I didn't exactly throw down, but I didn't take it easy either. Made it to bed at a decent time but got woken up twice in the wee hours of the morning by drunk people and then whiny cats. The bike ride coming in today was sick. I actually dismounted for a couple blocks after nearly falling over in the wind.

I think I'll make Sunday a total rest day.

Oooh yeah, I just bought a ticket to Puerto Rico for vacation. Iffin anyone has tips on things I should do while I'm there (other than sit on the beach, which I plan to do plenty of), lemme know.

Finally, to your left is a weird rice/banana/bean-based dessert I got from Angkor Market for a dinner I made for D, L and M. It was about as tasty as it is visually appealing. In my own defense, it was wrapped in a banana leaf when I bought it so I really had no idea what to expect. I like the picture anyway, though, because it reminds me of one of my favorite coffee-table books.

*It's a shitty fact about biking in Madison: even though the town itself is really bike-friendly, the wind is not. 90% of the time there's at least a 10 mph wind going, thanks to the lakes I think, and it shifts during the day such that I'm pushing against it 99% of the time. I really should get a better commuter bike - you know, one with multiple gears that weighs less than 50 lbs. But how would I ever find anything as stylin' as Little Red?